What I’ve noticed about watch collecting is there are a couple of different camps out there. Some collectors get immense joy from complicated watches, which can do anything from telling you the day of the week in 100 years to timing your pasta for dinner. Others like me tend to find joy in the ‘relative’ simplicity of time itself and having a date window on a dial is a ‘big decision’. So when I got the opportunity to get hands on with the Formex Stratos UTC there was a certain amount of apprehension, as this is by far the most complex time piece I’ve had the pleasure of spending some quality time with.

It’s also Formex’s most complicated watch in their repertoire. A super Swiss made pilot watch, which boasts a True GMT Function, quick-set hour pushers both clockwise and anti-clockwise, day and night window and a quick-set date with its own button at 8 o'clock. I fully appreciate that for many this is a mere bagatelle compared to a perpetual calendar let’s say, but for me it was a big deal (I really need to get out more).

First Impressions — The Specs

What surprised me is how intuitive the design and functionality of this watch is. As it must be

pretty clear to you by now I’ve never owned a watch with a GMT function, but I must admit I have always thought it to be one of the most useful complications out there. I live in Switzerland and my family live in the UK, which is only one hour difference so not something I would need a GMT for, BUT my dear friend Chris (@poppingcrowns on IG) lives in America and I’m always wondering what the time is over there for our chats, so I sent him a message asking him what the time is and dutifully set the watch to ‘Chris’ time, which brought me so much wholesome joy.

On this particular piece the GMT function works by turning the laser-engraved, 48-click bidirectional bezel, which has 24 separate increments to mark the time. Moving the bezel to the orange and white arrow allows you to set the additional time zone as you wish. The syringe style hour marker is your time and the syringe style minutes hand are used for both. It’s that simple (sorry to those who already knew very well how a true GMT function works).

The movement itself is an ETA 2892 caliber, which is “enhanced with a custom module

developed by Dubois-Dépraz — a movement component specialist with a legacy dating back to 1901 and known for their expertise in creating complex modules for high-end Swiss watch brands”. A respectable 42 hours power reserve, heat blued screws, 21 jewels and custom skeleton rotor, which you can see from the exhibition case-back help cement the feeling of a high end timepiece.

The master stroke here is the quick-set hour pushers. If you are someone who does a lot of

traveling, a watch like this is essential. You can easily set the time where you are without even taking your watch off. To me that is the epitome of luxury and although this watch is obviously a ‘Pilot’s Watch’ I can see how it would be useful to any intrepid traveler. They are also EXTREMELY satisfying to push. They aren’t stiff, yet feel extremely resilient and beautifully tactile. The perfect amount of resistance. I really enjoyed this feature.

The day and night window, which turns orange for day and black for night is such a lovely feature, which although may not be so ‘useful’ just keeps you on track for the day and is artfully placed at 9 o’clock which is very subtle and utilitarian in design. A feeling which echoes through the entire watch. The date is displayed with a sub dial at 6 o’clock, which on paper might sound fussy, but balances the design on the dial so well. The only issue with this is that I couldn’t read the date as my aging eyes couldn’t focus on the tiny numerals, so at a glance it was not so easy to read the date (basically I needed to get glasses). I also found that I needed a pointy tool to use the button at 8 o’clock to be able to change the date, so it was a bit fiddly in that respect.

The over sized screw down crown still enables you to change the time the good old fashioned way and I liked how practical and intentional the crown design is. All too often a crown gets overlooked, yet it’s our first port of physical connection to a watch, so personally of vital importance. A real bonus with the Stratos is despite being designed to feel at home in the air, you can relax in the oceans, seas and pools too boasting 100 metres of water resistance. I find this particularly brilliant, considering it has pushers and a separate button for date changing. The Sapphire crystal has an AR coating, which is vital for any budding pilots or if you’re like me and constantly taking wrist shots of your watches. No glare!

It's Got the Look

I often talk about watches as having masculine or feminine features and I can safely say this

watch is a male. From the angular shape to the no fuss font and highly legible numerals on the bezel. This watch is a dude. And I’m here for it. It’s so unapologetic in its utilitarian macho Persona. The dial design (which is available in green, blue or grey) has so much going for it, from the sunburst centre (which comes to life under direct sunlight) to the grainé-finished hour track and the date counter display at 6 o’clock, whilst the 24-hour track on the chapter ring contains a circular brush finish.

A beautiful beast with many facets even down to the intricate case design. It’s so fresh and

modern with its hand finished layered and sandblasted case and its edgy hand-painted numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9, yet still has its toes dipped into the vintage vibe with those Pilot style syringe hands and relatively thin bezel design. The SuperLuminova BGW9 applies to the numerals, indices and hands, which is top notch, as I would expect from a Formex watch and adds to the extremely practical feel of the watch.

Let’s not beat about the bush here. This watch at 41mm and 11.8mm thick is not dainty. But that’s not the point of it. It’s a tool watch in its purest form and the case design celebrates its depth, it doesn’t try to minimize it. The modern yet compact lugs mean it sits perfectly on any wrist with a 47mm lug-to-lug length and a beautiful and meticulous curve for ultimate comfort. I really adore that about it. 

If you are well versed in Formex watches you already know how fantastic their bracelets are. This is no exception. It has a patented quick release system that is so easy to use and a breeze compared to standard issue quick release systems because it isn’t fiddly at all. It also comes with an on the fly adjustment on its butterfly system, which is something you don’t often see and always a welcome addition to any bracelet design. It’s comfortable, elegant and fits any wrist size.

You also have your pick of leather straps, which has a beautifully engineered deployment clasp system in carbon, something I’ve never seen before outside of the Formex family. So awesome, but alas the straps didn’t fit my tiny 13.5cm wrists, so here are some pictures on a 15.5cm wrist I took from my resident man model. But looking at their website it appears they have a strap that would fit down to a 13cm so no issue there!

The Price

The Stratos UTC starts from 3,500 CHF/$3,865 USD on a leather strap to 3,650 CHF/$4,030 USD on a bracelet. I would wager you would be hard pushed to find a watch with these specs and build quality for any less.

Sophie’s Styling Tips

This is a tool watch to the highest degree, but there is definitely an elegance the Stratos UTC brings to a look. This shade of green is a gift when it comes to styling and if you gravitate towards neutral tones in general this would be a great choice for you. I also give you full permission to lean into this stunning shade of green like I have here. The colour is understated, so it is definitely not an overstep to match the dial with your outfit.

Final Thoughts

This has been a real eye opener and welcoming to the world of more complex timepieces. I can see why collectors get a kick from a watch with so many useful tools integrated into it. The Stratos UTC goes that one step further to make time changing across different time zones as seamless as possible and I particularly appreciate the ergonomic pushers for quickly changing the hour. It really adds to the overall experience on the wrist. Everything about this watch screams luxury and has the attention to detail, engineering and finishing of watches with a much higher price tag. 

Despite its relatively large size and girth (for my 13.5cm wrist), the Stratos was so comfortable to wear, aided by its beautifully tapered and compact lugs. In short, if you are looking for a Pilot’s GMT watch with a fantastic wrist presence, which is elegant yet robust, intuitive and distinctive in its design language, this may be the watch for you.