Watches, which have become non-essential objects, are beacons of self-expression. Whether you are or aspire to be an explorer, a diver, a pilot, or a successful businessman or woman, you can strap to your wrist the watch which shows the world who you are or who you want to be. Because whenever I see a Rolex Submariner in the wild, I say to myself “That’s a timeless and versatile watch, a true classic.” And I have similar thoughts about an Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional or a Doxa SUB200T (the latter which I can now see on my own wrist!) All three models are iconic and indicate (or used to for two of them) that the wearer is either a discerning watch enthusiast, a self-made person, or a genuine adventurer. Hence, in part, their “iconic” status. 

I for one am attached to that idea that a watch can tell a story about who I am. I would have been happy to be of adult age in the 1960s and wear a then-modern Submariner as it would have indeed said that I’m a diver and an adventurer. But in 2024 a no-date Submariner retails for $9,100 USD, a Speedmaster for $7,000 USD, and SUB200T for $1,600 USD. That’s a lot of money to spend on non-essential objects even though, through them, I could tell you who I am. So what options do we have today to say the same thing about ourselves for a more reasonable amount of money? And here I’m talking about a watch which says the same about you and I today as did a Submariner in the 1960s, not one in 2024. 

Do you catch my drift? Well, I certainly hope you do! With all of that said, today I’m glad to be telling you about the Belhamel Contra A39, a diver which indicates that the wearer is indeed a discerning watch enthusiast, a self-made person, or a genuine adventurer. 

Specifications 

What is a modern and timeless diver made out of? Well, the good stuff. Its proportions have to be (subjectively) right, its specs have to meet everyday’s challenges as well as make it possible for the watch to perform well underwater and on any kind of adventure. And visually it has to strike the perfect balance between legibility, timeless elegance, and discretion. I can already tell you that the Belhamel Contra A39 scores perfectly in the dimensions department: 39mm in diameter, 47mm lug-to-lug, 11.8mm thick, and a 20mm lug width. These dimensions are deemed by many to constitute the Goldie Locks measurements for an everyday diver. One, I would add, which comes with an impressive 300 meters of water resistance! In other words, the Contra A39 will be comfortable to wear on wrists of various sizes while exploring the magnificent marine ecosystems of our planet. 

A modern and timeless diver also needs a robust movement—a Miyota 9039 for example (4Hz/42 hours of power reserve)—generous and evenly applied layers of lume—SuperLuminova BGW9—as well as a comfortable and well-machined stainless steel bracelet. The latter also should be equipped with quick-release spring bars, female end-links, and a compact clasp (check, check, and check.) While some hardcore watch nerds will moan about the push-pins, and therefore the absence of screwed links, it doesn’t lessen the value of the Contra to me. You know what else a modern and timeless diver needs? Well, a hardening coating on the case (check), a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal complete with inner anti-reflective coating (check), as well as a solid unidirectional, count-up bezel with 120 crisp clicks and no backplay (double check.) 

Design

But having the right specs won’t matter in this scenario if the watch’s design doesn’t also make it possible for the diver to be indeed a modern and timeless piece of horology. In this department, I will already tell you that Belhamel did equally well, striking the perfect balance between under-the-radar-ness, elegance, and legibility. The dial comes with a classic and time-tested layout which some might deem to be boring and others (like yours truly) to be handsomely perfect. Large hour and minute hands, a thin seconds hand adorned with a bright orange lumed element,  applied and polished triangular hour markers, a matte black dial, and a simple minute track painted in white and orange. Note the larger hour markers at the 3,6, and 9, as well as the much larger marker at the 12 to ensure superlative legibility. 

The dial, therefore, has a design which could best be described as being simple and effective. And these are the types of adjectives which one should use when describing a modern and timeless diver, or as I indicated in the subtitle of this review, a quintessential diver. Understand this: I get why some of you would find the Belhamel Contra A39 boring, I do. And perhaps (hopefully) you will also understand why others like me would relish in describing this model as being classic, timeless, and a quintessential diver. As some watch enthusiasts look for designs that work in any and all situations and which fly-under-the-radar. But that’s who we are and that is not, perhaps, who you are. That’s alright, we don’t always have to agree in order for all of us to belong to the same watch community. 

Moreover, I would argue that the bracelet has the perfect design for this type of watch. It comes with what many describe as a “flat link” construction found on many other micro and independent watches. However, Belhamel went a step further by adding polished chamfers on all sides of each link as well as on the clasp, by putting female end-links for maximum wearing comfort, and for giving it a taper from 20mm at the lugs to 16mm at the clasp (for the same reason.) I’m no engineer or watchmaker, but I feel that using push-pins instead of screws is best for keeping the links thin, and that opting for old-fashioned micro-adjustment holes on the clasp (instead of the now sought-after on-the-fly micro-adjustment system) aid in keeping the entirety of the bracelet thin, comfortable, and elegant. 

The Heart of the Matter

At the heart of the matter is the fact that Belhamel did manage to create a new, modern, and contemporary quintessential diver. I read/watched other reviews of this model in which the reviewer(s) insisted in drawing design comparisons between the Contra A39 and iconic divers such as the Rolex Submariner, the Tudor Black Bay, or the Omega Seamaster. In the sense that they found that the Contra borrows visual elements from the aforementioned models. I don’t agree. To me, what the Belhamel has in common with these divers is the fact that it can also be described as being classic, timeless, and quintessential, and perhaps one day as being an “icon.” (Oh my, what a sought-after word for many.) Again in my eyes the Contra A39 does not look like a Sub or a Black Bay from a design perspective, neither by looking at the dial nor the case. 

On its website, the brand describes this model as being “retro modern” and “for the enthusiasts of the culture.” Indeed, the Contra A39 is retro modern in the sense that it is endowed with the same modern elegance and versatility retro divers from the beginning of dive watch age had (late 1950s through the 1970s), and that it is made for a certain part of the watch community, the one looking for classic-looking and timeless divers. (I’m sorry for using these words so many times in this article.) And I would further argue that Belhamel does offer the Contra A39 at a price that will make it accessible to many: roughly $530 USD including free shipping. A good price given what you get for your hard earned cash, and a price that remains reasonable thanks to the fact that Belhamel made certain decisions that aided in keeping the price of this model on the lower end of the spectrum. 

Conclusion 

Do you need a dive watch? No. But do you want one? Oh hell yes. And you must buy what you fancy and what will put your horological heart in a flutter. So I invite you to take a closer look at the Belhamel Contra A39 on the brand’s website which, by the way, comes in two color options: Black Raisin as seen here and Charcoal Blue. For $530 USD I would be hard pressed to once again think of many options for this type of watch coming from the micro/indy market (and any other market for that matter) which offers such good value for the money. And beyond the fact that the Contra A39 is a good deal, I would say that Belhamel did a wonderful job in designing a dive watch which not only looks timeless and elegant, but one which will also work in a great variety of situations, the latter being important for many of us watch nerds. 

At the time of publishing this article (September 18, 2024,) both models are readily available on the brand’s website for immediate shipping.

Thanks for reading.